Short answer: they're all two-part epoxies, but wood/tabletop epoxy is formulated for thin, hard, self-leveling coats over big surfaces, deep-pour epoxy cures slowly so it can fill thick river-table voids, and art resin is tuned for clarity, low odor and small pours in molds and on canvas.
| Tabletop / coating | Deep pour (wood) | Art / casting | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pour depth | ⅛–¼" | 1–4" per pour | ⅛–1" |
| Working time | 30–45 min | several hours | 30–60 min |
| Cure (demold) | 24 h | 2–5 days | 24–48 h |
| Hardness/scratch | high | medium | medium–high |
| Best for | bar tops, counters, flood coats | river tables, voids | coasters, jewelry, art panels |
Typical ranges; your label's numbers win. Wood always needs a thin seal coat first so trapped air doesn't bubble up (bubbles). See also resin vs epoxy, river table calculator and tabletop coating calculator.
For small thin coats, yes; for large tabletops a tabletop epoxy is harder and levels better, and for thick fills use a deep-pour epoxy.
No. Thick pours of fast epoxy overheat and can crack, yellow or smoke; use deep-pour resin or pour in layers.
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