Short answer: it depends where the bubble is. Surface bubbles and open pits can be fixed: sand the area smooth (or open the bubble with a small drill bit or needle), wipe off the dust, then fill the pit with a drop of fresh resin or pour a thin top coat over the whole piece. Bubbles trapped deep inside a clear piece can't be removed after curing; you can only hide them with an opaque or decorative top layer, or recast. Mix a small measured batch for the repair.
| Heat gun / torch | Heat gun / butane torch for bubbles → | Brief passes over the top coat |
| Mixing cups | Graduated mixing cups & stir sticks → | Small measured repair batch |
| Pressure pot | Pressure pot for bubble-free casting → | For casting, check pot rating |
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Area × thickness: use the coating calculator for flat pieces or the mold volume calculator; a thin coat on a small piece needs only a few ml. Split the batch with the weight converter.
Warm the bottles, mix slowly, pour thin layers, and use heat on the surface: see how to get bubbles out of resin while pouring and heat gun vs torch. For casting, some makers use a pressure pot (pressure pot vs vacuum chamber).
Surface bubbles and pits, yes: open them, sand, clean and fill or top coat. Bubbles sealed deep inside can't be removed, only covered or recast.
A clear top coat fills and levels open pits on the surface. It won't remove bubbles inside the piece.
Open and fill the pit with a drop of UV resin and cure it under the lamp in a thin layer; small pieces are quick to redo.
More tools: resin calculator · mix ratio by weight · cure time · mold volume · tabletop coating · pouring too thick
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