Short answer: choose epoxy for a thick, glassy, poured coat (bar tops, river tables, encapsulating objects); choose polyurethane for a thin, durable, wood-look finish (furniture, floors, cabinets). Many builders use both: epoxy for build, then a UV-resistant urethane topcoat.
| Criteria | Epoxy (tabletop/coating) | Polyurethane (varnish) |
|---|---|---|
| Thickness per coat | Thick: about ⅛" flood coat | Thin film; several coats |
| Look | Glassy, deep, 'wet' look | Natural wood look, satin to gloss |
| Scratches | Hard but scratches show on glossy surfaces | Generally good scratch/abrasion resistance |
| UV / sunlight | Ambers over time unless UV-protected | Many exterior/UV-resistant options |
| Heat | Softens with hot pans | Also marks with heat; use trivets |
| Application | Mix A+B, pour, torch; fixed working time | Brush, wipe or spray; easier for vertical surfaces |
| Repairs | Sand and recoat | Easy to scuff-sand and recoat |
Using epoxy? How much tabletop epoxy · countertop epoxy guide · bar top calculator.
Epoxy for a thick glass-like coat or embedded objects; polyurethane for a thinner, natural wood finish that is easier to apply and repair.
Yes, many people do for UV and scratch protection. Let the epoxy cure, scuff-sand it, and follow the polyurethane maker's instructions.
Neither likes hot pans. Use trivets with both.
More tools: resin calculator · mix ratio by weight · cure time · mold volume · tabletop coating · pouring too thick
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